Slugs and Earwigs are probably the most persistent and most common garden pests. In large numbers, they can wreak havoc to an entire planting bed or garden. Problem is, they are night marauders and you will need to go out in the evening with a flashlight, say around 10:00PM, to find them. Now, how do you get rid of them?

Slugs normally eat broad leaf plants like marigolds, petunias, salvia and will also eat vegetables like eggplant, zucchini, kale, chard, and also lettuce I found this year. The unusual amount of wet rainy weather this year has made my gardens open territory for a feeding frenzy. I seemed to have found quite a few different varieties as a result of this rainy summer in all sizes from the very tiny hard to see ones on my lettuces (need to wear my glasses), to the super massive ones that I refuse to touch without some kind of glove. Did you know that there are 40 different species of slugs in the United States alone? With some in the Northwest growing to 8 inches and up to 18 inches? Wow, thought you might want to know this. The most common garden slug in the New England area is about one inch long, thank God…

Earwigs are can also come in different size and can be just as destructive. They are definitely much faster and have these horrible little antennae and pinchers. They are a little more difficult to get rid of. These little pests hatch their eggs in the late winter and early spring and then decide to stay around all summer.

Chemical versus Organic Solutions

Earwigs

I am not a huge fan of using chemicals; however, these are a couple that will work for earwigs. Diazinon can be dusted around the plants and this insecticide will be tracked back to the nest thus killing many more. I have found that many times earwig nests are very close to the house around the foundation, so if dusted along the foundation, this will help to decrease and often eradicate the earwig nests. If Liquid Seven is used, it needs to be sprayed on the plants and kills the insects as they eat the plants.

Diatomaceous earth is another product that comes in the form of a chalky powder. It is the natural fossilized remains of diatoms, a type of hard-shelled algae. Not always easy to find. The dust is sprinkled around the plants and it easily clings to the bodies of insects as they walk and crawl over it. The tiny diatom particles cut the waxy coating of insects and they dry out and die of dehydration. It is all-natural and safe. Always use gloves, protective glasses and even a mask when using because it can irritate eyes and lungs.

An organic method for ridding of earwigs involves placing rolled up newspapers or paper towel rolls on the ground near problem plants and beds with one end taped shut. Earwigs love damp wood or paper and will crawl under or into these tubes during the heat of the day. In mid morning collect the tubes and either dispose of them or give them to someone who has chickens; they love them.

One method I just found out about is vegetable oil. They love it and I read that by placing a tin (aluminum pie tin) in the ground up to the lip and filling it with vegetable oil will invite the earwigs to come swimming… You decide if this is a method for you…

Slugs

Slugs are snails and like earwigs will forage and strip your plants during the night. I have found that my hostas are a delicacy for them.

By now you have all probably heard that beer is one of the easy solutions to ridding of slugs, especially stale beer because it is the yeast and sugar they crave, not the alcohol itself. Have you ever seen a drunken slug? Take a cover from a jar and bury it in the ground so that the top of the lip is just above the ground so the slugs can crawl in. Fill the cover with the stale beer or a mixture of 1 teaspoon of yeast and 2 teaspoons of sugar in 3 ounces of water. Check the cover in the morning and dispose of the drowned slugs. Do not leave for more than 48 hours. Refill the cover and prepare for the next group of swimmers.

Some people lay boards down to attract the slugs, not my favorite thing to do because then I have to usually pick the slimy critters up and off the boards. Yuck! If you do happen to get the slime on your hands pour a little cheap white vinegar over them and wash it off with lukewarm water. It will cut the slime.

Grinding the shells of walnuts, pecans, or filberts and sprinkling them around the plants is another suggestion, although, a little costly. The sharp edges will cut the slugs up. I have also taken all the egg shells I have collected over the winter and dried and crushed them and saved them in a container for the summer to sprinkle around my plants, especially hostas. This works quite well and is a nice environmental way to reuse the shells if not disposed of in the compost pile. Diatomaceous earth is another product that can be purchased that has the same effect if you do not eat eggs or nuts…

I have heard that a barrier around plants of powdered ginger works or wood ashes which act as a desiccant and dries up the slugs.

Ah, here is an instant solution that I have not used personally, but have friends that have tried this method and say it works. Take a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water, place in a bottle and spray the slugs. They will dissolve almost immediately and you do not need to be a sharp shooter, just aim quite close to the slugs.

For those who are night owls, you can always take a salt shaker, and go hunting in the middle of the night. Sprinkle each slug once found. Take a friend to hold the flashlight for you.

A barrier of lime 2 inches around the planting area will dissolve slugs, but like diatomaceous earth needs to be reapplied after each rain storm. Difficult this year with all the rain we have and a lot of work.

Other methods of control include Weed Patrol and keeping weeds in check and away from plants. Pull mulch away from the base of your plants and apply after temperatures have reached 70-75 degrees. Keep all decaying debris out of the garden beds, especially dead leaves and branches. Keep shrubs pruned especially near the bases near the bed surfaces.

Here is a new one, copper strips as a barrier will give slugs a jolt of electricity. I would like to know who has tried this and if it works. It seems the metal ions in copper are what repel slugs.

Have you ever heard of Quack Grass? Supposedly it damages the nerves slugs use for feeding. Chop it up and use it as mulch or soak it and make a tea and spray directly on plants. I would also know if anyone has tried this method.

I am always looking for ways to use my coffee grounds like around my Rhododendrons to encourage flower production. Recently, I discovered that these same grounds have other valuable uses like mulching and compost building because it is high in nitrogen which makes it a great material for dressing around fast growing vegetables. Many organic growers use coffee grounds around tomato plants because it helps to suppress late blight. Now I use coffee grounds around plants that attract slugs to help reduce the ravages these snails have on my plants – they would rather feast on the coffee grounds.

Other methods include oat bran scattered around plants, cocoa hulls used as mulch which is also beneficial adding nitrogen to the soil as it breaks down and suppresses weed growth. Rosemary scattered or grown around areas repels slugs. You can always take the salt shaker and venture out in the middle of the night and douse the slug resulting in a quick death, not exactly pleasant, but effective. Salt can be toxic to the soil, so use as little as possible.

There are many more organic methods to ridding of slugs and earwigs; some work and some don’t. You need to try one or several methods and be persistent and repetitive.

Just so you know slugs and earwigs do have their benefits. Slugs are important in the ecological life cycle. They help cycle organic matter, which helps to build healthy rich soil. They are food for wildlife like raccoons, garter snakes, toads, turtles, and birds. Earwigs are pesky bugs; however, they will devour almost anything. They eat other destructive bugs like aphids and mites. Why can’t they stop there and stay away from our plants.

So the decision is in your hands. Are they doing enough damage to eliminate? Are they more harmful then beneficial? You be the judge. The verdict is yours.

Viburnums have great seasonal interest. All have anywhere from white to pink flowers in the spring, many opening from very dark pink buds. Some are very fragrant like the Snowball Viburnum, others provide beautiful fruit in the summer and fall ranging from red to blue, to very black. For those of you who look to attract birds, these berries are a very vital source of food. As for foliage, most have glossy, dark green leaves that turn to burgundy in the fall, my favorite being the Winterthur Viburnum with its scarlet leaves and added bonus of pink to blue to black fruit. Some viburnums hold onto their leaves late into the winter and are considered semi-evergreen like the Leatherleaf Viburnum. The Prague Viburnum ‘Pragense’ is one of the evergreens and is a good example of a wonderful shrub to use as a hedge or in mass plantings.

Another wonderful feature of Viburnums is they are not fussy. They do thrive in full sun and moderately moist, well-drained soil areas, however they will grow in part shade and I have even seen them grow successfully in clay soils.

What is wonderful is that the maintenance for viburnums is minimal. They are bothered by few pests and diseases and they transplant very easily. Unlike many other ornamental trees and shrubs, they do not need spraying. They are even tolerant of pollution and harsh urban conditions.

Seasonal care involves an application of a layer of compost under the plant each spring. Spread the compost out to the plant’s drip line. Adding a two inch layer of mulch also prevents weeds and helps to retain moisture. Like all plants, water is important during times of summer drought. Prune lightly each spring to keep plants free of pests and diseases, and to keep the plant in healthy condition. Remove all broken, dead, and diseased branches.

Believe it or not Viburnums have been around for a very long time and have been celebrated as very popular plants, even though many people do not know about them. Did you know that Viburnum in Latin means wayfaring tree? The most popular and widely utilized are the Asian species like the Burkwood Viburnum (Viburnum x burkwoodi) and the Korean Spice Viburnum (Viburnum carlesii). Their fragrance is intoxicating and while sitting on my deck I can enjoy the scents from flowers on shrubs along the woodland border that are as far away as twenty to thirty feet, especially on a breezy spring day.

I use Viburnums in most of my landscape designs as specimens, as hedges or screens and in mixed borders. A good number of the species are shrubs; however, there are those that can stand alone as a small ornamental tree where space is limited like the Siebold Viburnum that can grow well over 15 feet to the Dwarf American Cranberrybush – Viburnum trilobum at only 2 feet tall by two feet wide.

We cannot forget the Native Viburnums and I do include those, as much as possible, in my own landscape, and that of my clients. They do not provide the fragrance of the Asian varieties; however, their presence and other qualities of form, fruit, and fall color display are important characteristics of a worth while plant. Some examples include the Mapleleaf (Viburnum acerfolium), Arrowwood (Viburnum dentatum), Possumhaw (Viburnum nudum), and Blackhaw Viburnum (Viburnum prunifolium).

When it comes to ultimately selecting a Viburnum, be it Native or Asian, you just need to know what characteristics you are looking for, and select one that has the features that meets your desires and needs. Before making a selection visit your local nursery and look at the different varieties available. Many mail order catalogues also provide many varieties. To help demystify the categories of Viburnums below you will find a brief description of the main classifications. This is not an absolute list, there are others, but this will help get you started.

• Korean Spice Viburnums (Viburnum carlesii)

  Is a very fragrant long lasting spring blooming variety. It grows to an average of 4-6 feet at maturity. It is a great example for both foundation and border plantings. The lovely white cluster flowers often with a slight pink overtone are followed by berries in the fall and a lovely foliage color display of reddish to almost purple.

• Burkwood Viburnum (Viburnum x burkwoodii)

  Emerges in spring with bright pink buds that open to white fragrant flowers. Another great plant for the border that grows a little taller, 8-10 feet. Fall fruit start out as red and change to very black. One of my favorite varieties

  ‘Mohawk’ has more of a pink bud opening to pink flowers.

• Fragrant Viburnum (Viburnum x carlcephalum)

  This shrub is a more open loose example with light pink buds opening to fragrant white flowers in late April and May. Grows 8-10 feet.

  One of my all time favorite viburnums is in this category it is ‘Mohawk’ and has more of a pink than white flower, at least at my house.

• Judd Viburnum (Viburnum x juddii)

  Is very similar to Korean spice but I don’t think the scent is as strong. Some people will disagree. Also a smaller rounder shrub grows 6-8 feet.

• American cranberrybush (Viburnum trilobum)

  Similar to the European cranberrybush (Viburnum opulus). It has the most incredible fall color and is great for moist areas. Use this native plant as a wonderful screen and in mass plantings.

• Arrowhead Viburnum (Viburnum dentatum)

  Is a very hardy shrub with nice glossy dark green leaves. It produces white fluffy flowers in the spring followed by somewhat bluish to black fruit in the fall with yellow to red fall leaf color. This is another good shrub for the birds. It grows 8-10 feet and sometimes to 15 feet in the right conditions. A great New England shrub for the coastal areas because it takes wind and is salt tolerant.

• Japanese Snowball Viburnum (Viburnum plicatum)

  Has a strong upright versus round shrubby growth and it flowers a little bit later than many other viburnums. It has a very round snowball white flower and is great for drying. This variety can be shaped into a small tree if trained young and properly but be careful not to over prune. Prune no more than a third of the branches per year. It can grow to 15 feet.

• Prague Ciborium (Viburnum x pragense)

  Is a hybrid and extremely hardy. Great for the northeast. It is a hybrid between The Leatherleaf and Service Viburnum. What I love about this plant is its long 4” waxy evergreen leaves. It is great for winter interest. In May it has dark pink buds that open to fragrant white flowers. It can grow to 10 feet tall and 10 feet wide so it is great for screening.

• Leatherleaf Viburnum (Viburnum rhytidophyllum)

  Is another great textural variety with leathery long leaves up to 7 inches and as much as 2.5 inches wide. I love this plant more for the leaves than the flowers which are somewhat lacy and do not compare to some of the other viburnums. However, the fruit produced in the fall are what makes this plant a beauty. They start out yellow then turn red and then black. This species does better in heavy shade and some winter protection, but it is worth it if planted in the right part of the landscape. Grow 1-15 feet.

• Siebold Viburnum (Viburnum sieboldii)

  Is probably the largest Viburnum in the species, at least to my knowledge. It is definitely a small tree growing to a height of 20 feet. It can be trained as a lovely standard that almost looks like a Hydrangea tree with its lovely creamy white flowers that open in May, flatter than the long panicles of the hydrangea. Again, fruit appear in October and ripen from rose to red to black. Be careful to make sure this plant has enough moisture; extremely high heat can cause stress and leaf scorch. I have used to soften iron fencing and add to the screening. The added bonus is the fragrance of the long lustrous dark green leaves. Rub one and tell me what you think the aroma is. Grows 15-20 feet.

• Wayfaringtrree Viburnum (Viburnum lantana)

  Yes, the wayfaring tree as so named, is the old what is know ironclad variety because it will grow in the worst of condition, clay soils. Again, a tall tree reaching up to 15 feet, great for screening. In may it produces a lacy white flower, not much fall leaf color, but a lovely fruit changing from yellow to red and then black. My favorite is V. lantana ‘Mohican’, often hard to find.

So now you know why Viburnums are one of my, no, are my favorite shrubs to use. I have about fifteen different varieties in my own landscape. I continue to look for new sources for Viburnums, as well as, new varieties. The only drawback – not enough availability. I have to continually nag the nurseries to carry more. They are simply just lovely.

Books in my Library

Dirr, M.A. 1997. Dirr’s hardy trees and shrubs: An illustrated encyclopedia. Timber Press, Portland, Oregon.

Dirr, M.A. Viburnums: Flowering Shrubs for Every Season

The culprit? White-tailed deer. Deer have become quite a common site in our backyards. Although their natural home is the open forests, it seems as though the surrounding neighborhoods have become comfortable habitats with an array of delicacies that fit their pallet quite nicely…. You know how it is, once you’ve found a restaurant you really like, you just keep returning. Deer do the same. If they’ve found food they like they’ll return until, well, it’s all gone. This can be very discouraging, especially if you’ve taken the time and expense to expand your garden area. They will eat in your woodland garden, along your borders, and even be so bold as to eat certain trees, shrubs, and plants right up and along the foundation of your home.

The first step to handling this dilemma is to accept the fact that the deer are definitely a creature you are going to have to learn to live in harmony with. If you live in deer country, they probably aren’t going to go away.

I know, you’ve tried taste and odor repellents like predator urines, soap repellents, human hair, noise repellents, including ultrasonic emitters and radios. Have you nearly given up? Some of these work for people, some don’t. Sometimes we need to use more than one suggestion…

Physical deterrents such as fences are the most effective way to keep deer OUT of your property, but may also be the most expensive and unsightly way to prevent deer from eating your most prized plants. An eight foot fence is an effective height. You should also check the local laws regarding installing fences before doing so. Each town has regulations as to the type and height a fence can be. If a fence is used, especially a chain link fence, be sure not to plant delectables to close. They’ll reach in and get them. And if a fence is not high enough, they’re bound to jump it. A fence should be buried deep enough into the ground so that they cannot dig under it. Dogs may be enough just to chase them away as long as you catch them before the act. Deer will learn after a while how to carefully approach a property once they’ve learned that there are dogs present and may even chase the dogs away. One may even distract a dog while the remaining forage and feast. Pretty Smart, Hah!

Deer have an incredible sense of smell and hearing, but their eyesight is poor. Place plants they dislike along the border of the garden or along the fence and desirables on the inside portion of the garden. There are plants that are more desirable than others. However, I have found over the past few years that if the deer, especially the young, are hungry enough they may nibble on plants that are usually considered unpalatable. If they try plants they do not like, they may venture away from the area.

If you must use repellents: TRAIN YOUR DEER VISITORS. If you use a purchased repellent or home made solution, use it often, weekly, and after a rainfall. If the deer consistently encounter a bad smell they will learn that this place is not such a good place to dine and move on to better eateries.

I have many clients with landscapes close to open woodland areas and have been pretty successful with some of the following brews: Try one or another or combine them, but be sure to apply frequently especially in the fall when the deer are getting ready for the hard winter and in the spring when you think you may have eradicated the visitors and once again they have shown up at your back door.

Fishy Deer Detergent

• 1 cup of fish emulsion
• 3 tbsp. of liquid kelp
• 3 tbsp. of dishwashing liquid
• Water

Mix the fish emulsion, kelp in a 3 gallon pump sprayer, and add water up to the fill line.  Apply to plants to the point of run-off. Reapply every 7 to 10 days, or following any heavy rain that washes the mixture off of the leaves. Great for bulbs.

Deer-Buster Eggnog Tonic

• 2 eggs
• 2 cloves garlic
• 2 tbsp. of Tabasco sauce
• 2 tbsp. of cayenne pepper
• 2 Cups of water

Put these ingredients in a blender and puree them.  Allow the mixture to sit for two days, then pour or spray it around all of the plants you need to protect. Reapply it every other week or so (or after a rain) to keep the odor fresh, and deer will head for friendlier territory.

Hot Bite Brew

• 3 tbsp. cayenne pepper
• 1 tbsp. of Tabasco sauce
• 1 tbsp. of ammonia
• 1 tbsp. of baby shampoo
• 2 cups of hot water

Mix the cayenne pepper with the hot water in a bottle, and shake well. Let the mixture sit overnight, then pour off the liquid without disturbing the sediment.

Mix the liquid with the remaining ingredients in a hand-held sprayer.  Spritz critter-susceptible plants as often as you can to keep them hot, hot, hot! It’s strong medicine, so make sure you wear rubber gloves while you are handling this brew. This one will keep the deer from browsing. Sometimes a good spray to use on plants along the border of the property. You can even mix the baby shampoo and the ammonia from the Hot Bite Brew with the ingredients From the Deer Buster Eggnog Tonic.

Learning what deer like and don’t like is just as important as using repellents to keep them away. They do seem to be attracted by plants with succulent stems and leaves like Sedums, Asters, Phlox, Hostas. Cypress Trees and Arborviteas seem to be some of their favorites. Shrubs may include Forsythia, Honeysuckle, Azaleas, many Rhododendrons, Blue Pacific Junipers, even Viburnums and some of the softer needle pines.

The following plants are those that deer are most likely to leave alone early in the season: False Indigo (Baptisia), Bleeding Heart (Dicentra), Lungwort (Pulmonaria), and Primrose (Primula). Deer avoid bulbs like Fritillaria, Daffodils (Narcissus), and Squills (Scilla), Ornamental Onions (Alliums).

Summer-blooming perennials like Yarrow (Achillea), Peony (Paeonia), Ornamental Poppy (Papaver), Astilbe, Irises are all early summer flowering plants that deer, unless absolutely starving, will avoid. Later summer-flowering perennials include Meadowsweet (Filipendula), Joe-Pye Weed (Eupatorium), Tickseed (Coreopsis), Condflower (Echinacea), Bee Balm (Monarda), and Speedwells (Veronica). Last are some fall flowers like Sindflower (Anemone) and some of the Goldenrods (Solidago).

Deer stay away from many of the herb plants like Mints (Mentha), Rosemary (Rosmarinus), Catmint (Nepata), Oregano (Origanum), and Lavender (Lavendula). These are great plants to use to keep Deer away from your garden. Ferns (all types) are great choices for shady woodland areas. There are a variety of other plants that can be found on the Web and are available through several mail order catalogues, as well as, local nurseries. Books like Wild Neighbors by John Hadidian and Deer Proofing Your Yard & Garden by Rhonda Massingham Hart are great reference sources for understanding wild life and how to cope with them. Each has recommended solutions for dealing with problems from not only deer, but chipmunks, bats, mice, voles, skunks, fox, etc.

Good Luck!

We now need to be careful not to over-water. Only water established plants deeply once, maybe twice per week. Over-watering lawns and vegetable gardens late in the day can cause fungus and death. Continue to water potted plants more frequently as they dry out quickly. Watering in the early morning is better because the foliage dries quicker and the moisture works its way into the leaves before the plants are stressed from the mid day sun. Watering in the mid day is just a waste of time and water, not a good conservation plan.

With the temperatures on the rise comes the appearance of insects. Uninvited culprits like Aphids, white flies and spider mites just happen to thrive in hot dry conditions. Watch your plants carefully and check them often so that you can catch them before they destroy your garden. Following a good watering routine will help prevent these unwanted guests from establishing a foothold on your plants. If you do find you have a pest problem, there are numerous insecticides on the market that work. Also, do some investigation and try natural preventatives to combat insects before they appear.

Although we do need to be careful not to over-water, moisture is a vital ingredient to the success of any living plant. Flowers will continue to grow, but may get leggy as the summer continues. A good pinch back on annuals helps them to fill out and will give you continued color for the rest of the summer. Only fertilize lightly and make sure to only fertilize after watering. If you have plants in pots continue to water and fertilize every two to four weeks through July.

One way to help with the conservation of water is to consider planting and incorporating heat tolerant plants into your landscape. Maybe try one or two different varieties and select a color that blends into your existing landscape. The list of available trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals just continues to grow and many nurseries and catalogue companies have increased their selection. Visit your local nursery and ask questions about different seasonal selections. They are always willing to guide your to the right selection. Online sources like the NC State University Plant Fact Sheet continually update their list of plants. They also give you a good description of the plant (growing conditions, size, light exposure).

What we are really trying to express is the environmentally friendly philosophy that we are all trying to act upon – the Practice of Water-Wise Gardening. The use of a drip-irrigation systems minimize water use and is over 90% efficient, whereas hand watering and sprinklers are only 50-70% efficient. Checking the soil moisture with a moisture meter also helps.

Practice water-wise garden design and plant selection by using xeriscapic plants (those that require little water, many of which are native). Many of these plants can be purchased from special catalogues like High Country Gardens or Well Sweep Herb Farm in Murray, NJ. Using native plants is a bonus because they often will establish faster to their native soil, then grow and thrive and give you many years of pleasure. Planting in the spring or in the fall will help the plants establish themselves to their new home quicker with cooler soil conditions and seasonal rains.

Remember to mulch properly…. The best way to prevent water loss. Save rainwater whenever possible, but do your homework on storage. We do not want to encourage sitting water and invite mosquito problems. Mulch will also help with the weed control. If you do not mulch you will just have to get down on your hands and knees and pull the water robbing uninvited plants OUT! They are great robbers of both water and nutrients so PLEASE WEED!

I know this seems like a lot to do in July, but if you have been keeping up to now you will have plenty of time to enjoy the month. Observe and take Pictures, and Plan what you want to do for next year. Take a nice cold drink, a good book, and sit back and take in the July blooms. Invite friends and try a new recipe with vegetables and herbs from the garden…. After all;

“Deep Summer is when laziness finds respectability” – Sam Keen

No one wants to start the season hurting themselves, so ease back into the outside work gradually. With all the snow we’ve had it’s a sure thing that the ground is going to take a while to dry out. Working wet or muddy soil can ruin the soil structure, causing soil compaction, drainage, and aeration problems later in the growing season. Once the soil can be worked, it can be tilled once. Add lime, fertilizer and manure accordingly.

Now is a good time to have the soil tested. Soil samples can be sent to the University of Massachusetts Agricultural Testing Lab for analysis. You can also buy your own kit from your local garden nursery and complete a test yourself.

There is still time to prune landscape plants, but don’t get carried away and cut off too much growth. The old rule of thumb is not to prune back more than one third of the growth, but you can remove any dead part of the plant in order to give it good aeration. Do not prune spring flowering plants such as lilacs and forsythia until right after they have bloomed. Prune evergreens just after they begin to show new growth.

Watch for perennials to emerge and once they have grown to a height of two or three inches they can be fertilized frequently, and with a light fertilizer. Be careful not to over fertilize because the result will be perennials with too much lush foliage and few or no flowers. Gradually remove winter mulch, but keep it handy in case of a late frost. A late frost can severely damage the buds on plants and they will ultimately not bloom. While removing mulch carefully, check for pests and apply dormant oil sprays before new growth begins.

Remove mulch from strawberries soon. If you wait too long the leaves will appear yellow. Keep the mulch around the base of the plants to help keep the berries clean, weed free, and to help conserve moisture.

Divide summer and fall flowering perennials now if they are overgrown and crowding out other plants. Dig up a clump carefully and use a sharp spade or knife to cut the plant into wedges. Replant these new divisions in well-drained soil and water moderately.

Watch the weather and carefully remove the old stalks from ornamental grasses before new growth begins. Cut to just several inches above the crown.

Superior oil and lime-sulfur are the two most common dormant sprays. Oil works best to control scales, mites, and other overwintering insects on fruit trees and some ornamental shrubs. Use lime-sulfur to control fungal diseases on plants like blueberries, raspberries, and black spot and rust on roses.

Now you can finally plant bare root stock when soil permits.

April is the month for planting peas, an easy to grow crop that thrives in cool weather. Be sure there is ample drainage so that the seeds do not rot. Once the soil reaches 45 degrees it’s time to plant. Soak the seeds for a few hours or overnight before planting and dust the seeds with an inoculate of nitrogen-fixing bacteria to help the roots take in more nitrogen. Plant the seeds 1 to 2 inches deep.

As soon as the soil is dry enough to rake, loosen it up and sprinkle spinach and early lettuce seeds in beds and cover lightly with soil. This broadcasting of seeds can be thinned later to allow for proper spacing between plants. If you plant every 10-14 days you will be rewarded with a fresh harvest from spring to mid summer!

Get your pots ready for planting in May. The salt encrusted pots can be soaked in a solution of 10 parts water to one part chlorine bleach for about a week to remove salt and disinfect them from diseases.

Enjoy the color of April flowers like tulips, daffodils, and other spring flowers by bringing them in and filling vases around your home.